Maria Baez Kijac's Blog

CHRISTMAS IN LATIN AMERICA

2009-12-04T14:52:00.003-06:00

Christmas is a time when Christians around the world gather to celebrate God’s greatest gift to the world – the birth of his only son, Christ. For Latin Americans it is, above all, a religious holiday, a time to be with family and friends, to give and share from the heart. It is a celebration of deep-seated traditions, of the triumph of light over darkness, of the promise of hope, peace on earth and of good will among people.
More than any other holiday, Christmas evokes childhood memories, locked in our heart, of family and friends sharing the special foods and customs of the holiday season. I still remember fondly the hustle and bustle prior to Christmas. The men helping set up the manger and the Christmas tree, the women fussing in the kitchen preparing the delicious sweets that would be shared, not only with the family and friends but also with the needy. I can never forget the aromas drifting from the kitchen.
The Latin American Yuletide traditions reflect our heritage. Most of our customs were brought by the Spaniards, German and Italians and adapted to the local conditions. The celebrations in many countries, especially in the rural areas, embody the folklore of each country, such as the famous “posadas” in Mexico and Guatemala, or the pageants, tableaux and dances in Brazil. And no celebration would be complete without the traditional foods served during the holiday season – tamales, all sorts of fritters (buñuelos, pristiños), sweet breads (pan dulces) and the tremendous variety of drinks that go with them, such as hot chocolate, atoles and fruit punches.
Let us share with our friends some of the Latin American traditions by inviting them for the classic hot chocolate and our favorite fritters, and of course music; the villancicos (Christmas songs) will get you in the spirit of the season. FELIZ NAVIDAD to all.

PRISTIÑOS DE NOCHE BUENA (Crullers)

These fritters are the classic Christmas dessert in Ecuador. Similar fritters are found in other Latin American countries under different names such as sopapillas, picarones, depending on the country. Some are made with yeast instead of baking powder and are mixed with pureed squash.

2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 ounces (4 tablespoons) butter or shortening, room temperature, cut up in 4 pieces
3 eggs lightly beaten
1 tablespoon anise liqueur
Place flour, baking powder, sugar and salt in the bowl of the food processor, and pulse to mix. Add butter, pulse until it looks like coarse meal. Add eggs and liqueur, and process until it forms a ball. (If preparing by hand mix the flour with baking powder, sugar and salt. Mix with butter, eggs and liqueur, kneading until dough forms bubbles.) Cover dough with plastic wrap and let it rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Roll dough into a cylinder, cut in two, then cut each half cylinder into eight pieces. Roll each piece into a strip about 2 x 6 inches. With scissors, make diagonal cuts on one side about halfway across the strip—about four cuts. Press ends together to form a wreath.
Heat about 1-inch of oil in a frying pan to 360°F. Drop 2 or 3 wreaths at a time and fry swishing the oil with a large slotted spoon over the wreaths. Fry on both sides until golden, then drain on paper towels. They are best served right away with Miel de Panela (recipe follows). Otherwise serve them at room temperature.

MIEL DE PANELA (Brown Sugar Syrup)
1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar or ground panela
1/2 cup water
2 whole cloves
1 small cinnamon stick
2 strips lemon peel

Place all ingredients in a heavy 4-quart saucepan and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until it forms a heavy syrup. Strain through a medium sieve, and serve, or cool and refrigerate. It lasts for several months refrigerated. Makes 16 pastries
Adapted from “The South American Table” published in 2003 by Harvard Common Press.

CHOCOLATE CALIENTE (Hot Chocolate)

Chocolate is one of the most delicious foods the Latin American Indians gave the world. There is hardly any country around the world that doesn’t enjoy chocolate, whether it is made into drinks or fabulous confections. At this time of the year in Latin America, hot chocolate is the indispensable accompaniment to tamales during the holidays. When people drop by to visit friends or relatives, you can be sure the hostess will be ready to offer them a cup of hot chocolate and a tamale.
There are different types of chocolate that varies with the country. The common denominator is that it should be thick and foamy. According to a saying “For a cup of chocolate to be perfect, it must be hot, sweet, thick and made by the hands of a woman.” Unfortunately, in the last few years hot chocolate has lost some of its glamour and coffee and tea are replacing this very special drink. I prefer to use whole milk but you can use any type of milk you like, the texture will be different depending on what type of milk you use.

4 cups milk ( 2% or whole milk, almond or soy milk)
3-4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, cut up in small pieces
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Whipped cream, optional

In a heavy 2-quart saucepan, mix milk, chocolate pieces. Bring to a boil over very low heat, whisking often so it doesn’t stick to the bottom. When the chocolate has completely melted, increase the heat to medium and bring to a quick boil, whisking all the time. After a couple of minutes the foam will start rising. Remove pan from the heat before it reaches the top of the saucepan and continue beating. If you are lucky, you will be able to get the foam to stay. Mexican cooks are famous for serving their hot chocolate with a lot of foam. Stir in vanilla extract.
Serve immediately in small coffee cups or mugs; if you are serving 8-ounce portions, top with a dollop of whipped cream if desired. As the chocolate cools it will thicken. Serves 4 to 6
(More information about the history of chocolate can be found in the South American Table.)

CHRISTMAS IN LATIN AMERICA

2009-12-04T14:52:00.000-06:00

CHICK PEAS AND SWISS CHARD STEW

2009-11-05T14:45:00.003-06:00

Fall is the time of the year when we start thinking of one-pot meals. The whether is getting cold and the body craves comfort food. The supermarkets are featuring a variety of winter squash, potatoes and sweet potatoes that are ideal to prepare hearty stews. Latin America is fortunate to have a large repertoire of stews thanks to the variety of immigrants that brought their favorite dishes with them. The Spanish brought wonderful cazuelas (stews) that the local cooks enriched with their native ingredients. These stews are usually made with some kind of legume, leafy greens such as Swiss chard, spinach or cabbage and the indigenous calabaza (winter squash). Spaniards season their stews with a piece of Spanish chorizo, ham, or salt pork, but during Lent they use either dried cod or make stew completely vegetarian. Whatever ingredients you choose will give you a hearty stew that will warm up your heart and palate, and will provide you with generous amounts of A and C vitamins, most of B-vitamins, potassium and iron.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1/2 green bell pepper, cored and chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced or crushed
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
2 large tomatoes (about 1 pound) peeled and chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 bay leaf
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, liquid included
1 15-ounce can white Northern beans, liquid included
2 cups water
2 medium all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
8 ounces calabaza or any other winter squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
10 fresh Swiss chard leaves, thoroughly washed and chopped into bite size pieces
8 ounces cooked ham, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and green pepper and sauté until the onions are soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and paprika, cook for a few seconds; add tomatoes, tomato paste and bay leaf, reduce the heat to low and cook uncovered until tomatoes are soft and saucy, about 10 minutes. If mixture dries up too soon, add a little water, mixture should be saucy. Add chickpeas, beans and water, bring to a boil, add potatoes, cover and cook for 10 minutes. Add calabaza and cook for 10 more minutes.
2. Add Swiss chard together with ham and simmer for 10 minutes. Add salt and pepper if needed and more water if too thick; the stew should have enough liquid to cover vegetables. Discard bay leaf.
3. Serve hot in soup bowls sprinkled with parsley and a good country-style bread. Serves 4-6

END OF THE SUMMER BOUNTRY

2009-09-20T14:06:00.004-05:00

Sun ripened tomatoes, colorful peppers, squash, corn, cucumbers and eggplants are perfect for end of the summer light and nutritious meals. Stuffed vegetables are very popular in the Latin American countries that have large settlements of Italian and Spanish immigrants.
Tomato and onion salads are especially good at this time of the year. Use any kind of tomatoes, diced or sliced, and take advantage of the summer bounty by using a variety of colorful tomatoes. Cherry or grape tomatoes come in different colors. Simply halve them and enjoy them dressed with a little olive oil and vinegar or lemon juice and your favorite fresh herbs.

ZAPALLITOS RELLENOS CON CHOCLO (Zucchini Stuffed with Fresh Corn)

The Italian immigrants quickly adopted the native ingredients and created wonderful specialties such as this one. The best zucchinis used for stuffing are the round variety, which are common in Argentina and Uruguay, but they are not easy to find here. I use the Mexican variety, which is shaped like a pear and is available in Mexican markets and many other supermarkets.

4 Mexican zucchinis
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons scallions, include some of the green
1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and finely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped sun-dried tomatoes
2 slices day-old bread soaked in 1/4 cup milk (or more)
1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
2 cups fresh or frozen corn kernels
2 tablespoons minced fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese mixed with
2 tablespoons dry breadcrumbs
2 cups good quality Marinara Sauce, heated

1. Wash zucchini thoroughly, remove stems and split in half, lengthwise. Scoop out the flesh from the center with a small spoon and reserve. Place halves on a jellyroll pan and bake in a pre-heated 375°F oven for 10 minutes.
2. While zucchini is baking prepare filling. Heat oil in a heavy skillet, add scallions, cook for 1 minute; add zucchini flesh, pepper, tomatoes, bread, corn, basil, salt and pepper, cook stirring for a few minutes until all liquid disappears, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in cheese, season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide mixture among zucchini halves, top with Parmesan cheese mixture. Can be made ahead to this point, covered and refrigerated.
3. To serve bake in a preheated 400°F oven for 20 minutes or until lightly colored. Serve topped with heated marinara sauce and garlic bread. Serves 4

Per Serving of two halveis: 354 Calories; 18g Fat (42.5% calories from fat); 15g Protein; 39g Carbohydrate; 6g Dietary Fiber; 30mg Cholesterol; 838mg Sodium.

Stuffed zucchinis are rich in Vitamin C, A, Calcium, Potassium, Vitamin B1, B6 and Folate. Good amounts of Iron, Zinc, Niacin and Vitamin B2.

ENSALADA DE TOMATES Y CEBOLLA (Tomato and Onion Salad)

This type of salad is common is many Latin American countries with variations. Some cooks use black olives to garnish the dish.

4 large tomatoes (about 2 pounds) well rinsed, halved across and seeded
1 medium onion, coarsely chopped and soaked in hot water for 5 minutes and well drained
1 jalapeño pepper cored, seeded and minced or thinly sliced (optional)
1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar or lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated black pepper
4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, basil or parsley
Black olives to garnish the salad (optional)

1. Place the well-drained tomatoes, onions and jalapeño pepper in a salad bowl.
2. In a small bowl beat oil with vinegar or lemon, salt and pepper until emulsified and pour over tomatoes and onions and sprinkle with cilantro, basil or parsley.
3. Serve in a glass bowl garnished with black olives, if desired. Serves 4

Per Serving: 87 Calories; 4g Fat (37.0% calories from fat); 2g Protein; 13g Carbohydrate; 3g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 149mg Sodium.

GARDEN VEGETABLES

2009-08-04T13:34:00.005-05:00

Very few activities are more fulfilling in the summer than visiting farmers markets. The glorious colors of fruit and vegetables ripened under the sun is a feast for the eyes. And what a treat it is savoring the real flavor of fresh strawberries, tomatoes and other fruits and vegetables.

It occurred to me this would be a great month to feature a vegetable medley using the vegetables that will be at their peak in August - colorful tomatoes and bell peppers, zucchini and eggplant, all seasoned with onions and garlic and favorite herbs. For this month’s blog I got my inspiration from a recipe I found in a book called Las Recetas Secretas de las Monjas (The Secret Recipes of the Nuns), published in Buenos Aires in 2003.

Traditionally the convents in Spain tended small gardens, where they grew vegetables for their daily consumption. The nuns developed some wonderful dishes after the vegetables from the Americas became part of their gardens. When they immigrated to the Americas, these specialties became part of our repertoire. A vegetable medley, known as pisto, was one of those creations that changed with the seasons; the ingredients that went into the pisto depended on what the garden had to offer.

PISTO MANCHEGO (Vegetable Medley from La Mancha)

When I was in Buenos Aires a couple of years ago I was invited to have lunch in a Spanish restaurant. The first tapa my Uruguayan friend Yvonne ordered was pisto, which I have found in tapas restaurants in Spain and other parts of the world. The pistos adapt to the seasons and can be served either hot or cold. They also can be served as appetizers or main courses. Many cooks add some boiled potatoes and boiled eggs or bacon, ham or canned tuna to round out the dish for a delightful summer meal. In the winter it is served hot as a side dish.

2 tablespoons olive oil, or more
1 large Spanish onion, halved and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1-1/2 cups)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 Chinese eggplant (4 to 6-ounces), optional
1 each small green, red and orange Bell pepper, cut into 1/2-in dice (about 2 cups)
1 teaspoon paprika
1 tablespoon unbleached flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups peeled and cubed ripe tomatoes
1/2 cup chicken broth made with 1 teaspoon chicken base, granules or paste
2 small zucchini, quartered lengthwise and sliced 1/2-inch thick (about 2 cups)

GARNISHES
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley
Thin wedges Manchego cheese or crumbled Feta cheese

1. If using eggplant, trim, peel, quarter lengthwise and slice ½-inch thick across. Place in a bowl and sprinkle with kosher salt. Let it stand for 30 minutes, rinse with cold water and drain.
2. In a large casserole or 11-inch frying pan heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until transparent, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook for a few seconds. If mixture is too dry add a little more oil, then add optional eggplant cook stirring well so oil coats the pieces; cook for 5 minutes.
3. Add paprika, flour salt and pepper and stir well; add peppers, tomatoes and chicken broth, bring to a boil, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Stir in zucchini, reduce to the heat and simmer covered until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes. Vegetables should be cooked but still be crispy and there should be a little sauce to coat them. If too dry, add a couple of tablespoons water. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.
4. Serve hot or cold as an appetizer or side dish, with a sprinkling of parsley and a few wedges of Manchego cheese. It is excellent with grilled chicken, fish or steak.
Serves 6-8

NOTES:
1. Many cooks feel it is not longer necessary to salt the eggplant slices to remove the bitterness. In the past I got a few small eggplants at a farm and green market that turned out to be so bitter I couldn’t use them. Salting didn’t help and I had to throw them away. I usually salt the slices, leave them in a colander for 30 minutes and rinse them thoroughly.
2. Eggplants absorb oil like a sponge so make sure the oil is hot, I usually have to add one tablespoon to the onions before adding the eggplant. Stir quickly to coat all the slices with oil.
3. If you want to save time you can use frozen diced onion. Add to the hot oil frozen but make sure you have a cover ready to protect against splattering.

Per Serving (excluding garnishes): 98 Calories; 5g Fat (42.8% calories from fat); 3g Protein; 13g Carbohydrate; 3g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 312mg Sodium.
Rich in Vitamin C and A, good amounts of B6 and Potassium

THE HEALTHY LATIN AMERICAN KITCHEN

2009-06-29T15:22:00.004-05:00

Watercress, Avocado In my first blog I talked about he origins of the Latin American Creole cuisine. There you can see that the basic ingredients of our cuisine are the same of the Mediterranean cuisine with the addition of other native, highly nutritious ingredients that never made the Exchange, such as quinoa, amaranth, Brazil nuts, açai and many other fruits and vegetables that scientist are discovering throughout the Americas.
Latin cooks have always used a variety of fresh vegetables, grains, beans and fresh fruits in our daily meals. Obesity was never a problem because the portions of our meals were small, as compared to todays. Our way of life in general was what experts tell us to do to achieve good health. We did a lot of walking to go to school, shopping or visiting friends and relatives. Our dinners were happy occasions to be shared with family and friends. We rarely went to doctors because there was an assortment of herbs to cure all kinds of minor ailments.
I cannot think of any other cuisine that, on the whole, fulfills today’s needs better than that of Latin America. Fresh and flavorful, simple and intriguing, earthy and versatile, as well as inexpensive, it is traditional cooking at its best for contemporary needs and tastes and can be proudly shared with guests. It is my hope that you will start cooking more often these Latin American specialties that are also family friendly - and very well balanced.
I’m introducing a new feature that I hope will prove the benefits of eating a Latin American diet – the nutritional analysis. Please keep in mind these analysis are going to be only guidelines; if you have a need for a special diet, you need to consult a professional nutritionist.
We have always eaten with the seasons. I remember when I was visiting my friends in Chile, the beautiful cherimoyas we had every morning for breakfast. The long bright green asparagus as well as the fresh artichokes that were prepared in different ways to enjoy them as often as possible while they were in season. For us in Quito, big trays of corn on the cob and fava beans, with wedges of fresh cheese were served as often as possible while in season. And of course, the farmer’s markets were brimming with the seasonal foods.
I try to do the same here and look forward to the spring, when I can enjoy the best green beans and asparagus and ripe papayas, mangoes and avocados that I include in various salad combinations that will please the eye and the palate and provide awesome amounts of vitamins and minerals. Following is one of my favorite salads.

WATERCRESS, AVOCADO, AND PAPAYA SALAD
Serves 4

This is one of my favorite salads, with a superb combination of flavors, textures and colors, the best that our cuisine can offer. When I eat this salad I feel I’ve gotten all the vitamins I need for the day. For a main course salad add shrimp, lobster or cooked chicken breast. The amount of dressing you use depends on personal taste. I use very little dressing, just enough to enhance the flavor of the ingredients. The classic vinaigrette is one of the best dressings to have handy because it goes with so many combinations of greens and vegetables. It was one of the most popular dressings of my book Cooking with a Latin Beat.
This salad is very rich in antioxidants such as Vitamins C, A, and Beta Carotene. You can increase the amount of antioxidants by using Brazil nuts instead of walnuts and dried goji instead of cranberries.

CLASSIC VINAIGRETTE DRESSING
1/2 cup safflower or canola oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Per Serving: 244 Calories; 27g Fat (98.5% calories from fat); trace Protein; 1g Carbohydrate; trace Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 251mg Sodium

SALAD INGREDIENTS
4-6 cups packed watercress tops (or a mixture of watercress and baby spinach)
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro leaves, or chives
1 small Mexican papaya or 2 ripe but firm mangoes
2 ripe, firm Hass avocadoes

GARNISHES
4 tablespoons dried cranberries or goji berries
4 tablespoons walnut halves or chopped Brazil nuts

1. To make dressing put all ingredients through black pepper in a jar fitted with a lid and shake until emulsified. Or for a creamier version put all ingredients in the blender and process for a few seconds. Chill until needed.
2. Rinse watercress (or mixture of watercress and spinach), drain and spin in a salad spinner until dry. This can be done ahead and refrigerated in a covered plastic container or zip-lock bag.
3. Cut papaya across, peel and cut into 16 wedges, or dice into 3/4-inch cubes. Can be done a couple of hours ahead and kept in covered plastic container. Peel avocadoes, remove pit and cut into 16 wedges, or dice into 3/4-inch cubes. It is better if this is done just before serving.
4. To finish salad bring the dressing to room temperature. Toss watercress with cilantro or chives and 1-2 tablespoons of dressing. Place one cup of watercress (or more) on salad plate, top with papaya and avocado wedges, alternating in a spoke fashion. Sprinkle some cranberries and walnuts on top, and drizzle each plate with a little salad dressing to taste. Serve immediately.

Per Serving: 244 Calories; 20g Fat (67.5% calories from fat); 5g Protein; 16g Carbohydrate; 5g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 29mg Sodium (garnishes included)

NOTES:
1. If I need a main course salad I add some peeled and cooked shrimp, lobster or chicken breast cut in small cubes, which should be marinated in some of the dressing before adding to the salad.
3. Leftover dressing can be refrigerated for a few days.

CEVICHES

2009-06-03T14:43:00.006-05:00

I can’t think of better dishes for summer entertaining than ceviches. They are light, refreshing and can be made the day before or a few hours ahead. It is the ideal first course to have while waiting for the meat to come off the grill.

Ceviches (also spelled as cebiches and seviches) are marinated foods that can be found in most Latin American countries, but the ceviches from Ecuador and Peru are justly the most famous in South America, definitely the most varied and unusual. Ceviches made with fish and shellfish are the most popular, but in Ecuador and Peru a variety of vegetables are also used to make different variations of ceviches. The fish must be absolutely fresh in order to make fish ceviches. The raw fish is “cooked” in the marinade and some shellfish like scallops are also used raw. Shrimp, chicken, mushrooms and other vegetables have to be pre-cooked before adding to the marinade. The ceviches from Ecuador are soupy because they are served with the marinade, while the Peruvian are more like a salad. Ceviches from Mexico are also famous and better known in the U.S. This is one kind of specialty that captures the heart and the palate of anybody who has traveled to the Latin America countries.

MARINATED SHRIMP & HEARTS OF PALM
Ceviche de Camarones y Palmitos
Serves 6

One of the most popular ceviches in Ecuador is Ceviche de Camarones, usually made with shrimp or langostinos (prawns). Also popular is the Ceviche de Hongos and the Ceviche de Palmito. Sometimes I combine two of these ingredients like in this case, to give an extra dimension. Ceviches in Ecuador are always served with maíz tostado (toasted dry corn) or popcorn, plantain chips and French bread on the side, along with a bowl of ají (hot sauce), for those who like their food more fiery. This citrus marinade can be used as a basis for different types of ceviches, such as Mushroom Ceviches, Hearts of Palm Ceviches or others that use shrimp with a mixture of vegetables.

12-ounces medium or large frozen, raw peeled shrimp
1 14-ounce can hearts of palm

Citrus Marinade
2 large ripe fresh tomatoes, about 1 pound (or 1 cup tomato juice)
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
3/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/2 cup ketchup
1 teaspoon olive oil
1/2 tespoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce (or to taste)
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro or parsley leaves
1/2 recipe Cebollas Encurtidas (see below)

Garnishes
1/2 recipe Cebollas Encurtidas
Sprigs of parsley
French bread
Popcorn
Plantain chips (optional)
Hot sauce

1. To cook the shrimp, bring 4 cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add shrimp, remove from the heat, let stand for a few seconds until shrimp turns pink and starts to curl. Drain and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking and make the shrimp crunchy. Cut each shrimp in half across and transfer to a covered plastic or glass container. Refrigerate until needed.
2. Drain hearts of palm, rinse and cut each piece into 8 rounds Reserve with the shrimp.
3. Cook tomatoes in 1/2 cup boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain, rinse with cold water, skin, seed and puree in a blender or food processor. Pass through a sieve.
4. In a glass bowl mix tomato puree, lemon and orange juice, ketchup, olive oil, salt, black pepper and hot pepper sauce. Taste and add a little lemon or orange juice to balance flavor, if needed. None of these flavors should be too pronounced and you might have to add a little sugar if tomatoes are too acidic. More hot sauce is provided on the side for people who like hot ceviches. Marinade can be made the day before and kept refrigerated. Two to four hours before serving mix cilantro, cebollas, shrimp and hearts of palm with the marinade, taste and add salt or sugar if needed. Chill.
4. Serve in small bowls or stem glasses, garnished with a teaspoon of the remaining onions and a sprig of parsley. Bowls of popcorn and hot sauce are served on the side to be added to the ceviche by the guests. French bread and optional plantain chips are also served in bowls.

Per Serving 127 Calories; 2g Fat (13.7% calories from fat); 13g Protein; 16g Carbohydrate; 1g Dietary Fiber; 86mg Cholesterol; 525mg Sodium
Rich in vitamin C, with good amounts of Vitamin A, Potassium, Iron and Niacin.
Garnishes not included.

MARINATED ONIONS
Cebollas EncurtidasRed onions prepared this way are a must for Ecuadorian ceviches. Prepare them about 4 hours before serving. You will need half of them to add to the ceviche 2 hours before serving.

1 medium red onion, cut in half lengthwise and thinly sliced
1 cup boiling water
1 lemon
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup freshly ground black pepper

Pour boiling water over onions and let stand for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Toss with lemon juice, salt and pepper, cover and refrigerate until needed. This should be done about 3 hours ahead to give time to the onions to turn pink.

A variety of Ceviches can be found in my book The South American Table

THE HEALTHY LATIN AMERICAN KITCHEN

2009-05-03T14:34:00.005-05:00

In my first blog I talked about he origins of the Latin American Creole cuisine. There you can see that the basic ingredients of our cuisine are the same of the Mediterranean cuisine with the addition of other native, highly nutritious ingredients that never made the Exchange, such as quinoa, amaranth, Brazil nuts, açai and many other fruits and vegetables that scientist are discovering throughout the Americas.
Latin cooks have always used a variety of fresh vegetables, grains, beans and fresh fruits in our daily meals. Obesity was never a problem because the portions of our meals were small, as compared to todays. Our way of life in general was what experts tell us to do to achieve good health. We did a lot of walking to go to school, shopping or visiting friends and relatives. Our dinners were happy occasions to be shared with family and friends. We rarely went to doctors because there was an assortment of herbs to cure all kinds of minor ailments.
I cannot think of any other cuisine that, on the whole, fulfills today’s needs better than that of Latin America. Fresh and flavorful, simple and intriguing, earthy and versatile, as well as inexpensive, it is traditional cooking at its best for contemporary needs and tastes and can be proudly shared with guests. It is my hope that you will start cooking more often these Latin American specialties that are also family friendly - and very well balanced.
I’m introducing a new feature that I hope will prove the benefits of eating a Latin American diet – the nutritional analysis. Please keep in mind these analysis are going to be only guidelines; if you have a need for a special diet, you need to consult a professional nutritionist.
We have always eaten with the seasons. I remember when I was visiting my friends in Chile, the beautiful cherimoyas we had every morning for breakfast. The long bright green asparagus as well as the fresh artichokes that were prepared in different ways to enjoy them as often as possible while they were in season. For us in Quito, big trays of corn on the cob and fava beans, with wedges of fresh cheese were served as often as possible while in season. And of course, the farmer’s markets were brimming with the seasonal foods.
I try to do the same here and look forward to the spring, when I can enjoy the best green beans and asparagus and ripe papayas, mangoes and avocados that I include in various salad combinations that will please the eye and the palate and provide awesome amounts of vitamins and minerals. Following is one of my favorite salads.

WATERCRESS, AVOCADO, AND PAPAYA SALAD
Serves 4

This is one of my favorite salads, with a superb combination of flavors, textures and colors, the best that our cuisine can offer. When I eat this salad I feel I’ve gotten all the vitamins I need for the day. For a main course salad add shrimp, lobster or cooked chicken breast. The amount of dressing you use depends on personal taste. I use very little dressing, just enough to enhance the flavor of the ingredients. The classic vinaigrette is one of the best dressings to have handy because it goes with so many combinations of greens and vegetables. It was one of the most popular dressings of my book Cooking with a Latin Beat.
This salad is very rich in antioxidants such as Vitamins C, A, and Beta Carotene. You can increase the amount of antioxidants by using Brazil nuts instead of walnuts and goji berries instead of cranberries.

CLASSIC VINAIGRETTE DRESSING
1/2 cup safflower or canola oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Per Serving: 244 Calories; 27g Fat (98.5% calories from fat); trace Protein; 1g Carbohydrate; trace Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 251mg Sodium

SALAD INGREDIENTS
4-6 cups packed watercress tops (or a mixture of watercress and baby spinach)
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro leaves, or chives
1 small Mexican papaya or 2 ripe but firm mangoes
2 ripe, firm Hass avocadoes

GARNISHES
4 tablespoons dried cranberries or goji berries
4 tablespoons walnut halves or chopped Brazil nuts

1. To make dressing put all ingredients through black pepper in a jar fitted with a lid and shake until emulsified. Or for a creamier version put all ingredients in the blender and process for a few seconds. Chill until needed.
2. Rinse watercress (or mixture of watercress and spinach), drain and spin in a salad spinner until dry. This can be done ahead and refrigerated in a covered plastic container or zip-lock bag.
3. Cut papaya across, peel and cut into 16 wedges, or dice into 3/4-inch cubes. Can be done a couple of hours ahead and kept in covered plastic container. Peel avocadoes, remove pit and cut into 16 wedges, or dice into 3/4-inch cubes. It is better if this is done just before serving.
4. To finish salad bring the dressing to room temperature. Toss watercress with cilantro or chives and 1-2 tablespoons of dressing. Place one cup of watercress (or more) on salad plate, top with papaya and avocado wedges, alternating in a spoke fashion. Sprinkle some cranberries and walnuts on top, and drizzle each plate with a little salad dressing to taste. Serve immediately.

Per Serving: 244 Calories; 20g Fat (67.5% calories from fat); 5g Protein; 16g Carbohydrate; 5g Dietary Fiber; 0mg Cholesterol; 29mg Sodium (garnishes included)

NOTES:
1. If I need a main course salad I add some peeled and cooked shrimp, lobster or chicken breast cut in small cubes, which should be marinated in some of the dressing before adding to the salad.
2. Be aware that Brazil nuts have a high amount of selenium, which can be toxic if eaten in large quantities. My brazilian friends eat only 2 a day for good health.
3. Leftover dressing can be refrigerated for a few days.

EASTER - PASCUA

2009-03-29T14:38:00.007-05:00

With Easter approaching I thought I would share a dish from Paraguay that has a special status on the Lenten table, when eating meat is strictly forbidden. Paraguay is the only country in South America that has two official languages -Spanish and Guarani. Many of the old dishes like this torte, are Creole and are known by their name in both languages, since 90% of the people speak both.

SOPA PARAGUAYA
Mbaipy Avatí

The Guarani name for this specialty is Mbaipy Abatí, which means Dry Corn Polenta, and Sopa Paraguaya in Spanish. The only explanation I have as to why this torte or cornbread is called sopa (soup) in Paraguay is that the corn mixture that goes into the oven is almost soupy. Sopa Paraguaya is the most popular specialty in Paraguay. It is the traditional dish served at weddings, holidays and special occasions. On Good Friday, especially in the rural areas, it is the standard fare in every home. The classic Sopa Paraguaya does not have fresh corn in it; although some cooks add it for a lighter texture and flavor. The cheese generally used in Paraguay is a fresh cheese that is not available in this country. The usual substitute is a combination of farmer’s cheese or ricotta with any Mexican white cheese.

2 medium onions chopped, about 2 cups
2 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
3 ounces (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature
4 egg yolks
4 ounces Chihuahua cheese, shredded
1 cup ricotta cheese
1 cup cooked corn kernels, coarsely chopped in blender or food processor
1 cup buttermilk (or 1 cup milk mixed with 1 tablespoon vinegar)
1-1/2 cups yellow cornmeal
4 egg whites

1. In a small saucepan combine onion, water and salt; bring it to a boil and simmer covered for 10 minutes. Set aside to cool.
2. In the large bowl of an electric mixer cream butter. While beating add yolks, one at a time; mix in cheese and corn. Fold in onions with its liquid and then cornmeal, a third at a time alternating with buttermilk.
3. Beat egg whites until they hold soft peaks, then carefully fold into cornmeal mixture. Transfer to a well- buttered and floured 2-1/2 quart casserole or rectangular baking pan and bake in a preheated 400°F oven for 45 minutes or until golden brown. Cool for 5 minutes, cut into squares and serve. This torte is at its best when eaten right out of the oven, but it is also good reheated. I usually freeze the leftovers and reheat in the microwave. This cornbread is great for breakfast with a good cup of coffee. Serves 8

NOTE: More Paraguayan recipes can be found in The South American Table, By Maria Baez Kijac.

CARNIVAL MEMORIES

2009-02-18T15:08:00.010-06:00

By Margarida Nogueira

For Brazilians, Carnival is the most beloved of all traditional holidays. It is the time of the year when Brazilians express their happiness and joy de vivre. And for three crazy days before Lent, the whole country seems to be in a celebratory mood. The Escolas de samba (Samba Schools) lead the parades with people dressed in those amazing and colorful costumes that Brazilians make throughout the year – from devils and angels, to queens and pirates, Indians and beautiful Bahianas; it is a time of joy and good will, of simply letting go.

When we were teenagers, my parents preferred to leave Rio de Janeiro and go to our country home in a small town up on the hills. They knew that the Carnival there was still celebrated as a big party, in a smaller, healthier environment, where we could dance, have fun or just, as we like to say in Brazil, brincar o Carnival (horse around) and go to the parades. Besides, my brothers and I were free to bring as many friends as we could fit in the house.

I can still taste and remember all the good food my mother used to prepare with the help of the maids, who also enjoyed having all the young people around. The guests always brought special treats – cakes, cookies and preserves. For Saturday, Sábado de Carnaval, Feijoada Completa (Bean and Meat Stew) was a must. Moqueca, Picadinho, Vatapá and many other Creole dishes were prepared during those magical days.

On Mardi Gras (Terça-feira Gorda) we generally had my mother’s special Roast Loin of Pork with Farofa de Banana and a most anticipated dessert, Pudim Quero Mais (I want more pudding).

Over the years things have changed and, although the Carnival parade is still fantastic, for me it looks more like a Broadway musical. Regardless, the memories of those days are always present in my mind and in the pudding I prepare for my grandchildren who say: quero mas, quero mas!

LOMBO DE PORCO
Roast Loin of Pork

Marinade
1 cup white wine
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 cup basil leaves
1/2 cup parsley leaves
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon salt
6 black peppercorns
1 garlic clove
1 tablespoon olive oil

2-1/2 to 3 pounds loin of pork boneless
1 cup sliced onions
Juicie from 1 orange
1 tablespoon orange zest

1. Place all the ingredients for the marinade in the blender and process until pureed. Place pork in a glass container, or plastic bag, add marinade, cover and leave it in the refrigerator overnight.

2. Remove pork from the marinade and reserve marinade. Put pork over a bed of sliced onions in a baking pan and bake in a preheated 425° F oven for 20 minutes; reduce the heat to 375ºF and continue baking for about 40 minutes or until golden brown, basting from time to time with the marinade. Remove roast from the pan and let it rest for a few minutes while finishing the sauce.

3. Degrease juices in the pan, add remaining marinade and the juice of 1 orange and bring it to a boil, simmer for a few minutes, stirring, season with salt and pepper to taste and add orange zest.

4. To serve, slice the pork and serve with some of the sauce on top, either with farofa de banana or mashed potatoes.

Margarida's grandchildren helping prepare pudim.

PUDIM QUERO MAIS
I want more Pudding

Brazilian sweets are generally very sweet. I have cut down the amount of sugar in this recipe and even so, for some palates, it is still too sweet. I have also made this dessert without the caramel and found it to be just as delicious. I sprinkle some dry coconut on top and serve either warm or at room temperature.

Caramel ingredients:
1 cup sugar
1/3 cup water
2 tablespoons corn syrup
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

Pudding ingredients:
1 cup sugar
1 cup water
1 tablespoon butter
6 whole eggs
1-1/2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 cup coconut milk (Brazilian coconut milk is thin)
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. In a small heavy saucepan, mix all caramel ingredients. Cook over medium heat without stirring, for about 13 to 14 minutes or till you get a golden caramel. Immediately pour caramel into a 4-6 cup ring mold and turn in all directions to film the bottom and sides.

2. In a medium size saucepan mix sugar and water to prepare a sugar syrup; when it reaches a medium density, remove from the heat, add butter and let it cool.

3. In a large bowl beat the whole eggs till they begin to foam; add coconut milk, grated cheese mixed with the flour and finally the sugar syrup. Mix well and pour into the caramelized mold.
Bake in water bath in a pre-heated 375ºF oven for 1 hour approximately. Let it cool for 20 minutes before unmolding.

Notes:
Obs Receita da minha mãe, Luisa Nogueira e que sempre fez muito sucesso na família.(This is my mother’s recipe that was always a hit with the family)
Margarida Nogueira lives and works in Rio de Janeiro. She is a food writer, culinary historian, cooking teacher and restaurant consultant. She has worked as a consultant with cookbook writers in the United States.

QUINOA

2009-01-24T16:01:00.006-06:00

Quinua

I decided to start the year featuring very healthy and delicious recipes using some of the super foods of the Incas. Quinoa was their Mother-Grain and almost disappeared after the Spanish conquest, but thanks to the growing interest in health and nutrition it is being revived. Quinoa is grown on the eastern slopes of the Andes, sometimes along with potatoes and corn. The plant grows at altitudes above 9600 feet and is frost resistant thanks to the size of its germ, or embryo as compared to the size of other grains. The latter also explains its nutrient profile, characterized by an outstanding balance of protein, minerals, and vital amino acids, it is one of the few complete vegetable proteins There are about 200 varieties of quinoa, which range in size from as small as a grain of sand to the size of sesame seed, and in colors that vary from ivory, brown, red and black. Its centuries-old history as a staple protein for hardy mountain tribes has been confirmed by modern laboratory evaluation of its nutritional content, with credentials of being very close to a “whole” food. Quinoa is an extremely versatile grain, suitable for almost any kind of dish. It is a good substitute for rice and bulgur and can be used in salads, soups, stews, croquettes, casseroles, or to stuff vegetables and make desserts. Since quinoa does not contain the gluten of grains such as wheat, it is a valuable alternative for those who suffer from grain allergies.

ECUADORIAN QUINOA CHOWDER WITH PORK AND CABBAGE
Sopa de Quinua con Chancho y Col

People from the Andean countries are particularly fond of chowders. The Indians used the green leaves of the quinoa plant to flavor the soup and did not add meat. When the Spaniards introduced the pork, the Indians adopted it immediately and incorporated it into their specialties. This nourishing soup can be made without the pork and will be just as delicious; it is a complete meal by itself. I get many requests for this particular recipe from people who lived in Ecuador and were delighted to find quinoa was becoming more readily available in this country.

1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon ground annatto or paprika
1 cup finely chopped leek (use 1-inch of the green)
1 large tomato (about 8 ounces), peeled and chopped
4 cloves garlic, passed through a garlic press
1 teaspoon salt and
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon crushed oregano
Pinch red pepper flakes
3/4 pound lean pork cut from the leg or shoulder cut into 1/2-inch cubes
6 cups hot water
1 pound red or yellow potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
8 fresh cabbage or kale leaves, chopped (about 2 cups)
3/4 cup raw quinoa (well rinsed)
4 tablespoons dry roasted peanuts (or peanut butter) pureed with
1 cup 2% milk or soy milk
1 cup frozen peas
Fresh minced parsley for garnishing

1. Heat oil in a heavy 6-quart casserole over low heat. Stir in annatto powder or paprika, add leek, tomato, garlic, cumin, oregano and pepper flakes. Cook stirring occasionally for 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium, add pork cubes and cook for a couple of minutes tossing them so they are well coated with the leek mixture. Add water, cover, reduce the heat to low and simmer for 45 minutes. Add potatoes, cabbage, quinoa and peanut puree, partially cover and continue cooking until potatoes are done, about 20 minutes. If soup is too thick add more boiling water to get desired consistency. Add peas, cook for a couple of minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Serve hot in soup bowls or plates, garnished with parsley.

Makes about 12 cups

For more recipes with quinoa see The Art of Cooking with Quinoa and The South American Table.

LATIN AMERICAN CHRISTMAS

2008-12-07T11:56:00.008-06:00

More than any other holiday, Christmas brings families together in a celebration of deep-seated traditions. For Latin Americans it is a religious holiday, a time of rejoicing at the triumph of light over darkness, a promise of hope and of peace on earth, good will among men. It is a time of giving and of sharing in the special foods and customs of the season.
The Latin American yuletide traditions reflect our heritage as well as the mingling of Spanish, German, Italian, Portuguese, and other cultures that immigrated to the Latin American countries. Each country has its own celebrations, especially in rural areas that embody the folklore of that country. Famous are the posadas in Mexico and Guatemala; the pageants, tableaus and dances in Brazil; and the processions and villancicos (Christmas songs) of the Andean countries. The nacimientos or pesebres (nativity scenes) are displayed in special rooms where family and neighbors congregate every night to say the novena, sing villancicos and admire the beautiful figures that commemorate the birth of Jesus.
No celebration would be complete without traditional holiday season foods: tamales, buñuelos (fritters), pristiños (crullers), pan dulce (coffee cakes) and the wide variety drinks that go with them – hot chocolate, atoles (corn beverages) and fruit punches.
Christmas holidays were very special times for my family and me. Memories of the commotion and excitement of preparing for the holidays are still vivid in my mind. My parents and relatives thrived on fussing over the preparation of traditional foods. My mother and aunt Michita were accomplished cooks, and each mastered the preparation of breads, tamales, and cookies and chocolates to fill the paper bags that were put on the Christmas tree.
Following are two specialties that were offered to friends who came to visit and look at the nativity creation, which changed little from year to year: Pristiños and hot chocolate or Canelazo Caliente.

ECUADORIAN PRISTIÑOS DE NOCHE BUENA
Christmas Eve Crullers

On Christmas time we look forward to big platters of pristiños (crullers) and buñuelos (buns.) These fritters are the classic Christmas desserts in Ecuador and many other South American countries. Similar fritters, called picarones in Peru and sopapillas in Chile, are made with yeast instead of baking soda and the dough is mixed with pureed squash. In Ecuador the dough is sometimes made with pureed squash like in Peru. This type of fritter can also be found throughout South America under different names and styles. It is a European import that went through some transformations depending on the region.

2 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 ounces (4 tablespoons) butter or shortening, room temperature, cut up in 4 pieces
3 eggs lightly beaten
1 tablespoon anise liqueur
Canola oil for frying
1 recipe Miel de Panela, below

Place flour, baking powder, sugar and salt in the bowl of the food processor, pulse to mix. Add butter, pulse until it looks like coarse meal. Add eggs and liqueur, process until it forms a ball. If doing by hand mix the flour with baking powder, sugar and salt. Mix with butter, eggs and liqueur, kneading until dough forms bubbles. Cover with plastic wrap and let it rest for 30 minutes at room temperature.
Roll dough into a cylinder cut in two, then cut each roll into eight pieces. Roll each piece into a strip about 2 x 6 inches. With scissors make diagonal cuts half-way on one side, about four cuts. Press ends together to form a wreath.
In a frying pan heat oil, 1-inch deep, to 360°F. Drop 2 or 3 wreaths at a time on both sides, swishing the oil with a large spoon over the wreaths. Fry on both sides until golden. Drain on paper towels. They are best served right away with Miel de Panela. Otherwise serve them at room temperature.

MIEL DE PANELA (Brown Sugar Syrup)
1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar or ground panela
1/2 cup water
2 whole cloves
1 small cinnamon stick
2 strips lemon peel

Place all ingredients in a heavy 4-quart saucepan and simmer over low heat stirring occasionally until it forms a heavy syrup. Strain through a medium sieve, cool and refrigerate. It lasts for several months refrigerated.

Makes 16 pastries

ECUADORIAN CANELAZO
Cinnamon Tea

Canelazo is one of the oldest and most comforting drinks from the Andes, it is part of the Andean folklore, served at home and in the streets during many holidays, especially Christmas. There is nothing better in a cold night up in the mountains than a steaming cup of canelazo, spiked with rum. This drink has survived throughout the ages and the fashionable tea. One year, when I was spending Christmas in Quito, I was invited for tea and a viewing of an old-fashioned Nacimiento (Bethlehem). It was a very special treat to go back to the time of my childhood when we all fussed fixing the Bethlehem and waiting every night for friends and neighbors to drop by to sing villancicos (Christmas songs) and partake in the refreshments afterwards. Canelazo was always ready for the guests to warm up before heading back home. The sweetener can be sugar or panela (brown sugar). When made with naranjilla juice, it is called naranjillazo. The original spike was aguardiente (sugar cane brandy), which the masses still use.

4 cups water
1/2 cup sugar
8 cinnamon sticks
1 cup naranjilla juice (optional)
Juice of 1 lemon
Rum

Bring water, sugar and cinnamon to the boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low, simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes or until water has developed the cinnamon flavor. Add optional naranjilla juice and simmer 5 more minutes. Sweeten to taste, strain and add rum to taste. Serve immediately.

Serves 4-6

Adapted from The South American Table published by Harvard Common Press, 2003.

THE POTATO

2008-11-03T16:01:00.005-06:00

More than 500 years ago, potatoes were a staple food of the Incas, who cultivated more than 200 varieties. Today, potatoes are eaten worldwide and are one of the world’s most popular cheap food sources. To honor this humble tuber, the United Nations, in conjunction with the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO), has declared 2008 “The International Year of the Potato.”
The potato is the world’s fourth most important food crop, after rice, wheat, and corn (maize), with an annual production of more than 300 million tons. Potatoes are grown in more than 100 countries, from the Andes to northern Europe, and in parts of Russia, China and India.
The Andean people of South America excel in the preparation of a variety of specialties based on the potato. The following is a famous dish from Colombia.

COLOMBIAN PAPAS CHORREADAS

Potatoes with Tomato and Cheese Sauce

This specialty is from the Colombian Andes. The classic sofrito is built into the recipe. We season the dish with herbs and spices and enrich it with white cheese and cream or half-and-half. This sauce is served over boiled potatoes and as an accompaniment for a Colombian specialty called sobrebarriga (oven braised flank steak). It is also great with grilled fish or chicken.

6 medium all-purposed potatoes, peeled
2 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions (use 1-inch of the green)
1/2 cup finely chopped leek, white part only
1 14-ounce can peeled tomatoes, drained and chopped
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup half and half
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup chicken bouillon
1/2 cup grated mozzarella or Chihuahua cheese

1. Place potatoes in a large saucepan with salted water to cover by an inch. Cook over low heat for 20 minutes or until potatoes are tender; drain thoroughly, cover and keep warm.
2. Heat oil in a heavy medium size skillet over medium heat. Add scallions and leek and cook, stirring occasionally until transparent, about 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, cilantro, oregano, cumin, salt, and pepper, reduce the heat to low, cover and cook stirring occasionally for 15 minutes until tomatoes have softened to make a sauce, adding a little water if sauce has dried up Add half and half, milk, bouillon, bring to a boil and simmer for a couple of minutes. Add cheese and cook stirring until cheese is melted. If sauce is too thick thin it out with a little bouillon. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. To serve, make a cross with a paring knife on top of each potato so it opens a bit, pour sauce over and serve as an accompaniment to grilled meats, poultry or fish.

Serves 6

SOFRITO

2008-10-05T13:53:00.005-05:00

Sofrito is a savory sauce that originated in Spain and Portugal and was made by sautéing onion and garlic in olive oil. After the discovery of the New World, peppers and tomatoes were taken back home by the Spaniards and were incorporated into this sauce. When Spanish women started coming to the Americas in the 17th century, they brought with them the sofrito that was to become the quintessential condiment for most of the savory specialties in Latin America.
Sofrito goes by different names such as refrito, recado, ahogado, rehogado, hogao and aliño. Most of the sofritos are basically the same; what changes from country to country, and even within a country, are the herbs and spices cooks choose to use for specific dishes. In some of the Caribbean countries, such as Puerto Rico and Cuba, the sofrito is more elaborate than in most other countries, because they use minced ham or salt pork to flavor the sauce. They also use some special kinds of peppers and culantro, an herb indigenous to Puerto Rico. The cooks in some countries prepare this sauce in quantities large enough to last for a few meals. The ingredients are puréed in a blender or food processor and cooked for a few minutes before cooling and storing. It will last for about 10 days in the refrigerator or can be frozen in ice cube trays to be used as needed. Recipes usually call for 1/2 cup to 1 cup of the sofrito—though most of the recipes throughout Latin America simply include the ingredients for the sofrito needed for that specific recipe along with other ingredients for the dish. Commercially prepared sofrito is available in Mexican and some American supermarkets.

BASIC SOFRITO
(Sofrito Básico)

2 tablespoons canola or olive oil
1 teaspoon annatto oil or sweet paprika
1 medium onion finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1 small green pepper, cored and finely chopped (about 3/4 cup)
2 cloves garlic passed through a garlic press
2 large ripe tomatoes (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded and chopped1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat; add rest of ingredients, cover and cook, stirring occasionally for 20 minutes or until tomatoes are soft and saucy. Add a little water if they dry up too soon. Variations call for the onions to be first sautéed until transparent before adding the rest of the ingredients.

In the next post I will feature Papas Chorreadas (potatoes with a cheese and sofrito sauce), where a sofrito is the base for a cheese sauce.

THE PORTUGUESE EXPERIENCE

2008-09-12T13:15:00.009-05:00

The Portuguese experience was different from the Spanish. The Portuguese were used to tropical climates because of their conquests in Africa, so they were more predisposed to the tropics than the Spaniards. Gilberto Freyre, in his classic work, The Masters and the Slaves attributes the Portuguese success to their ability to blend in, intermarrying with the local peoples wherever they went, whether it was Africa or in the Americas. When they landed in the region that is now Brazil, they quickly took Indian wives and embraced many Indian foods such as cassava (yuca), which became a very important part of their diet. Like the Spaniards they also brought their own foods, including sugar cane, salt cod, olives, sausages, wine for cooking, and the widespread use of eggs, sugar, cloves and cinnamon that the Portuguese had inherited from the Moors. They also brought dishes such as couscous, codfish cakes, and pork with clams, which became typical of Brazilian cuisine.

The Portuguese realized from the beginning the importance of the forest as a source of food, but they had to depend on the Indian women to teach them how to use those resources. The Tupi- Guarani Indians had been growing cassava for about 5,000 years in the Amazon forests of Brazil, Colombia and Venezuela. It was the bread of the natives of those areas, and the Portuguese adopted it in all its forms, and it became the basis of their diet, almost to the exclusion of wheat. I will talk more about this important root in a future post.

Later on, when the Portuguese women started to arrive, Indian women taught them how to make all kinds of delicate confections with the cassava. They also taught them the process of fermentation needed to prepare some of their specialties. This is the reason why the contribution of the Indians to the Brazilian cuisine survived.

The African influence was of tremendous importance in the development of the Brazilian cuisine. The slave trade started in 1538 and lasted through the nineteen century. Most of the slaves that came were from the west coast of Africa. By the time the slaves gained their independence 400 years later, about 10 million Africans had arrived in Hispanic America. The greatest concentration of slaves was in Portuguese lands: the Caribbean and Brazil. Many slaves lived together on the large coffee and sugar plantations, in groups that became like small towns, and this is the reason they were able to keep their culture and traditions largely intact. They brought their food, music, dance and religious practices, all of which became a very important part of the culture of the countries where there was a concentration of slaves, such as Brazil.

For more information on the Brazilian Experience see the Introduction of The South American Table, published by Harvard Common Press.

In the next post I will feature Sofrito, one of the first Creole specialties.

Creole Cuisine Emerges

2008-09-02T12:59:00.004-05:00

I thought it fitting that my first real blog post should be about the Latin American people and Creole cuisine, because Latin America is a region of great cultural diversity. However, the essence is anchored in the cultures and histories of three races: Indian (early inhabitants of the Americas), Hispanic (settlers from both Spain and Portugal), and African (most of whom arrived as slaves brought by the Portuguese).

Our history begins with the landing of Christopher Columbus on the Hispaniola in 1492. He came looking for spices but he found instead a variety of foods never seen before. The Spaniards on their return trips to Europe took with them corn (maize), potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, avocadoes, squash, sweet potatoes, peanuts, beans, cassava, chocolate, chocolate, pineapples, papayas, vanilla, and turkey.

When Columbus came back to the New World on his second trip he brought back vegetable seeds, wheat, chickpeas, sugar cane, onions, garlic, as well as cattle and rice, all of which were to become staple foods of the Americas. The mixing of the two cultures began because the Spaniards came without their women and were not adept at kitchen activities; they had to depend on the Indian women to prepare their food and to father their children. Scholars are not in agreement as to which came first, the Creole race or the Creole cuisine.

In the beginning the cuisine was rather rudimentary. The diet of the Indian population was mainly vegetarian with only occasional fish or wild game. The Indians seemed to have had a folk wisdom about dietary needs that we now recognize, thanks to scientific research. In order to supplement the lack of protein and other nutrients in maize, the Incas planted kidney beans in the same fields with maize, while the Aztecs grew tomatoes instead. This seemed to help regenerate the soil, in addition to providing needed nutrients. Along with corn the Indians ate peppers, beans, tomatoes and squash to achieve a balanced diet. Unfortunately, while the Spanish adopted many of the local foods they rejected some foods that were essential to the Indian diet and destroyed fields of quinoa of the Incas and amaranth of the Aztecs, mainly to replace them with the less nourishing wheat.

When the Spaniard women arrived in the 17th century the Creole cuisine really flourished. By this time some of the American ingredients in Europe had already began the process of “creolization.” The Spanish women brought sofrito, the perfect Creole sauce made with the Spanish onions and garlic, sautéed in olive oil, and the Indian tomatoes and peppers. This condiment seasons just about every savory dish in the Latin cuisine. The Spanish women also brought back the cacao beans, which the Spanish had learned how to turn into one of the most delicious drinks, hot chocolate, which became a favorite of colonial hostesses and eventually of the masses.

In the next post I will talk about the Portuguese experience.

Welcome!

2007-08-25T15:19:00.002-05:00

Welcome to the blog of Maria Baez Kijac. Here I will post my ideas about cooking, history, and life, all from a Latin American perspective.

I hope to demonstrate the degree to which native foods from the Americas have changed the way the whole world eats. I will also show how those foods have evolved in their lands of origin, along with how foods and new traditions introduced to the Americas have been incorporated into Latin American cuisine.

I will also talk about foods important to the Americas that never really "left home."

In the meantime, you can find my book, The South American Table.